i adopted my lab mix korra at eight weeks old and followed all of the training books to a t. i crate trained her, socialized her with all kinds of people, and brought her everywhere with me, in the hopes that she would become an easy-going dog as she grew into adulthood. seemingly overnight, she became uncontrollable, often lunging and barking at the end of her leash whenever she saw another dog. leash reactivity is when your dog overreacts to a stimulus while they are on a leash. in some dogs, they may show a fearful response or try to run away from the thing that upsets them. and what happens when you introduce a leash into the mix? if a dog is fearful of the stimuli in front of them, the leash interrupts their biological “flight” response, and doesn’t fully allow them to escape from the thing that’s upsetting them — which can cause even more stress.
there are multiple protocols out there, but they all boil down to one basic concept: the goal of leash reactivity training is to keep the dog below their threshold of frustration, so they can see the thing causing the reactivity, without getting upset. at this point, korra could see the dog and be aware of their presence, but she was assured that the dog wasn’t an immediate threat to her. eventually, the idea is that your dog will associate the sight of another dog with a happy event — getting a treat. and over time, your dog will be able to see another dog and react calmly, because they know that as soon as they do, good things happen. if you see your dog reacting, exhibiting signs of stress or frustration, then you’ve moved too quickly and are expecting more from your dog than they can handle. korra is still working on lowering her frustration when we’re on walks, but she has shown a world of improvement from the fearful, lunging, reactive dog she used to be. never use a retractable leash (like in the photo).
even if you understand the general idea of what we’re trying to accomplish, it can be quite difficult to translate that into a successful plan for your dog – especially if you don’t have much experience with dog training! louie is a very cute, very sweet young dog that i have had the pleasure of working with for the past several months. (it’s important to note that many of the reactive dogs we work with are also quite aggressive or quite fearful about direct interaction with people – with these dogs, we approach things very differently! but for now, i’ll try to give a brief summary of how it works, and explain how we implement this approach with most of the dogs we work with. this was still a major sticking point at home, since it wasn’t unusual to encounter other dog owners out for a walk, and louie was rapidly developing an unflattering reputation in the neighborhood.
note how quickly i am clicking and treating on the first pass in particular – this is because louie is immediately looking up at the dog again as soon as he finishes each treat, which means that i also need to click again immediately. i find that people have a tendency to rush this by just throwing the dogs together and hoping for the best, which can lead to lots of problems. every dog is different, so it’s very difficult to give a “cookbook”, step-by-step procedure for every case – it depends on your goals, your priorities, your dog’s personality and preferences, and a host of other factors. i always worry though that if we are on a walk and have to get home and cannot avoid the stimulus that we are setting ourselves back. you’re right that anytime you encounter a dog on a walk and don’t hold up your end of the bargain by clicking and rewarding, this is a training set-back – so we want to do everything we can to avoid this! the class focuses a lot on strategies for situations like this – how to get out of a problem situation, methods for keeping your dog busy or distracted when needed, and simple skills you can teach to make daily life easier with a dog like this.
say their name and reward them for looking at you. start in a low-distraction environment, like your living room. gradually move to busier areas as you’re able leash reactivity is when your dog overreacts to a stimulus while they are on a leash. dogs can be “reactive” towards any kind of trigger they have a instead, if we want to truly “fix” leash reactivity, the single most important thing we have to do is change how your dog feels about his, dog leash reactivity getting worse, dog leash reactivity getting worse, can leash reactivity be cured, leash reactivity vs aggression, e collar for leash reactivity.
broadly speaking, leash reactivity is when a dog reacts in an unwanted manner toward a given stimulus while on a leash. one of the most common examples is a dog that, when leashed, barks or growls as another canine approaches. many dogs lunge and bark at other dogs when on-leash, a behavior that trainers call “leash reactivity.” there are a number of reasons why dogs develop this leash reactivity is an extremely common behavior in dogs. it is caused by the leash and its restrictions. leash reactivity is a very situation- eighty percent of addressing leash reactivity is teaching the human how to observe the dog’s body language and move them away before they’ve, what is leash reactivity, frustration leash reactivity, what causes leash reactivity, reactive dog leash sleeve. you likely have a leash reactive dog if:your dog whines or barks at people, dogs, cars, etc on leash.your dog lunges or excessively strains at the leash when seeing a stimulus.your dog redirects onto the leash or onto you by biting, nipping, or shaking.
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